Saving my 1978 Honda CB400A “Decaf” bike from a near fatal blow — lower gasket blowout and huge oil leak! (like, dumped a quart+ of oil in minutes while riding fast on highway at high temps). It was inadvertently overfilled with oil (my bad) and driven too hard (twin brother’s not so good) combination that killed the Beast!
Work with my twin brother (a very gifted self-and-internets-taught car and motorcycle moonlighting mechanic!), I as assistant especially for the entire reassembly and much of the cleaning work.
We had to take the top 3 layers off the engine stack (AKA “complete top-end rebuild”),
remove the pistons, and strip all the way down to the gearbox.
Layers: [valve cover] gasket [valves] gasket [cylinders and pistons] gasket [gearbox and crankcase]
Very neatly Honda makes them all stacked and connected via 8 super long screws that compress, when properly torqued, the entire set under the valve cover.
replaced the piston rings (very thin split rings circling the pistons that make them “float” up/down the cylinders),
re-honed the cylinders (you use a “flexible hone tool” to clean, slightly resurface, polish and add a light “cross-hatching pattern” to them),
cleaned the pistons completely (lots of carbon buildup after decades!) and installed 3 new gaskets — especially paying attention to the lowest gasket that tore and blew oil using some “gasgacinch” sticky product around the oil jets).
Then we did a full valve job (gets the valves ideally aligned to the 4-stroke engine stages),
timing belt adjustment, oil change, and more.
In addition, the air filter was trashed, so replaced that and fashioned an air filter custom holder to keep it from slipping back into the air box.
Bonus points: exhaust and carbeurator gasket replacements.
About $150 in parts (piston rings alone were OEM Honda and $75+), but probably the equivalent of $800-1000+ in labor.
OK, so here’s the problem. I think the Apple Watch is too small (but it’s weight is “just right”!) and I dislike the bands. In fact, I never wear “normal” watches anymore — I greatly prefer nice and wide uniform width leather cuffs.
So I found (and ordered) this cute cheapie < $20 adapter (which as I thought, comes direct from China). The black can chip/flake a little (it’s not anodized into the metal well), which they know/cop to — but it’s so cheap so who cares? 😉
My thinking was to get something at least as wide as the watch (1.5″ wide band) but would set off/partially incognito the black aluminum 42mm watch casing. The other two bands were an even wider brown one (but it just was a bit more plain than I’d hope for, less “me”) and a 3″+ *really* wide black one (but it looked a little too S&M or something — again not really “me”). Thankfully Nemesis was great about letting me return them in exchange for another band and watch I wanted (since I was about two weeks past the return deadline!)
center the watch (charger is easiest) on the back of the band (those rivets you see below hold the “snap parts” for this particular cuff — that’s a more ideal setup than a looped kind of other way to secure the watch w/ a single snap underneath — because we’re going to need to cut out a hole so the watch can touch (and basically “see” your skin)
trace the charger with a pen
cut the circle out with an xacto knife or similar
slide out the old watch band
assemble the new watch adapter (you can see it in pictures below slid and locked into the watch)
snap in in!
Now you can charge it through the hole nicely, and it should make good skin contact and thus stay unlocked once it’s on.
[ I happen to like also wearing the watch on my left wrist, but face on my underside of the wrist (also makes the watch more innocuous / disappears — and more of a “surprise” when you “wrist up and twist” to others 8-). So I made my settings say the watch was on my right wrist (since the “bend up arm and twist” motion is more like the other side when you wear the watch this way. ]
A nice thing about this approach is that you can always glance down anytime you are editing to see which mode you are in (or the emacs lisp code *thinks* you are in). You can also fork/edit the single “.el” lisp file to add/update the triggers for various modes.