I did it!
Take a SketchUp model into the new iOS ARKit. Using my SketchUp home remodel and Apple’s ARKit (beta) for augmented reality.
Goal: import a model (in this case, a remodel) to overlay onto existing real world that you can walk around and ‘experience’ and compare.
You can see the results in the youtube video as I step through the trickier setup parts and things that took the longest to sort out.
- code repo: https://github.com/traceypooh/SketchAR
- apple ARKit sample app I start with and extend: https://developer.apple.com/sample-code/wwdc/2017/PlacingObjects.zip
Overview, info, and more for ARKit:
here’s the model I’ll be using for ARKit and augmented reality.
it works very nicely now in google cardboard and viewers (head movements change view — “virtual button” teleports you around inside of the house!) — but also in modern web browsers (mouse movements to change view and move through).
I’m quite excited to have figured out so far how to:
- update home machine to Sierra to run xCode 9 beta
- start playing with xCode
- borrow iPhone 7 with iOS 11 beta running on it
- setup free provisioning for testing app
- start with ARKit “hello world” type app demo from the amazing folks at Apple
ARKit possibilities are blowing me away!
(That’s the spaceship hoving in my office to left of my desk 😉
Now! On to hacking and trying out my app idea…. 😀 😀 😀
Saving my 1978 Honda CB400A “Decaf” bike from a near fatal blow — lower gasket blowout and huge oil leak! (like, dumped a quart+ of oil in minutes while riding fast on highway at high temps). It was inadvertently overfilled with oil (my bad) and driven too hard (twin brother’s not so good) combination that killed the Beast!
Work with my twin brother (a very gifted self-and-internets-taught car and motorcycle moonlighting mechanic!), I as assistant especially for the entire reassembly and much of the cleaning work.
We had to take the top 3 layers off the engine stack (AKA “complete top-end rebuild”),
remove the pistons, and strip all the way down to the gearbox.
Layers: [valve cover] gasket [valves] gasket [cylinders and pistons] gasket [gearbox and crankcase]
Very neatly Honda makes them all stacked and connected via 8 super long screws that compress, when properly torqued, the entire set under the valve cover.
- replaced the piston rings (very thin split rings circling the pistons that make them “float” up/down the cylinders),
- re-honed the cylinders (you use a “flexible hone tool” to clean, slightly resurface, polish and add a light “cross-hatching pattern” to them),
- cleaned the pistons completely (lots of carbon buildup after decades!) and installed 3 new gaskets — especially paying attention to the lowest gasket that tore and blew oil using some “gasgacinch” sticky product around the oil jets).
Then we did a full valve job (gets the valves ideally aligned to the 4-stroke engine stages),
timing belt adjustment, oil change, and more.
In addition, the air filter was trashed, so replaced that and fashioned an air filter custom holder to keep it from slipping back into the air box.
Bonus points: exhaust and carbeurator gasket replacements.
About $150 in parts (piston rings alone were OEM Honda and $75+), but probably the equivalent of $800-1000+ in labor.
A challenging and very educational labor of love!
I’m about to sell, with some sadness, my 1978 Honda CB400A “Hondamatic” motorcycle.
I have one last problem with it — that’s been baffling me for over a year.
When I consolidated the speedometer and “idiot lights” to a svelte new cafe racer style chrome LED-based single instrument, I found that its neutral light was always on, no matter what gear.
So I finally figured out a clever (if I may say so) way through research to use the “proverbial $7 part” from in-stock Radioshack — a RELAY switch!
Here, I describe and show the problem, step through a bit of the bike’s electrical system, and show you how I used a relay to fix the problem.
I’ll be sad to see you go, little Decaf!
The *awesome* video learning tutorials I used on Youtube to determine relays were for me!:
RELAYS – How to wire and how they work TUTORIAL !!
How An Automotive Relay Works and How to Wire ‘Em up
OK, so here’s the problem. I think the Apple Watch is too small (but it’s weight is “just right”!) and I dislike the bands. In fact, I never wear “normal” watches anymore — I greatly prefer nice and wide uniform width leather cuffs.
So I found (and ordered) this cute cheapie < $20 adapter (which as I thought, comes direct from China). The black can chip/flake a little (it’s not anodized into the metal well), which they know/cop to — but it’s so cheap so who cares? 😉
Next I ordered a few different bands from my *favorite* watch (and fun! also cheap!) store (I’ve rocked their watches for years now, and have fun getting different styles. Their website is a bit slow, but they have great selection). I settled on this (crazy cheap clearance!) item black tattoo-like watch cuff band (which nicely didn’t come with a watch I didn’t need).
My thinking was to get something at least as wide as the watch (1.5″ wide band) but would set off/partially incognito the black aluminum 42mm watch casing. The other two bands were an even wider brown one (but it just was a bit more plain than I’d hope for, less “me”) and a 3″+ *really* wide black one (but it looked a little too S&M or something — again not really “me”). Thankfully Nemesis was great about letting me return them in exchange for another band and watch I wanted (since I was about two weeks past the return deadline!)
- center the watch (charger is easiest) on the back of the band (those rivets you see below hold the “snap parts” for this particular cuff — that’s a more ideal setup than a looped kind of other way to secure the watch w/ a single snap underneath — because we’re going to need to cut out a hole so the watch can touch (and basically “see” your skin)
- trace the charger with a pen
- cut the circle out with an xacto knife or similar
- slide out the old watch band
- assemble the new watch adapter (you can see it in pictures below slid and locked into the watch)
- snap in in!
Now you can charge it through the hole nicely, and it should make good skin contact and thus stay unlocked once it’s on.
[ I happen to like also wearing the watch on my left wrist, but face on my underside of the wrist (also makes the watch more innocuous / disappears — and more of a “surprise” when you “wrist up and twist” to others 8-). So I made my settings say the watch was on my right wrist (since the “bend up arm and twist” motion is more like the other side when you wear the watch this way. ]
I made new “slide-responsively” for image menus, which is minimal standalone HTM/CSS/JS inspired by “sliding-door” from Wayne Connor
I’ve just kept the sliding door idea, and made it independent of a WordPress theme so it can be added to a site using another theme
Try shrinking the width of the browser or rotating your mobile device.
View Source to see the minimal elements needed.
Just replace the 7 images and links and go!
From the video:
“Two weeks ago, Green Magic Man became the top poster on kawasaki ZX6 forum”
“One week ago, Hyperlapse hit the App Store”
“this is their story”
“Green Magic Man” hitting the curves on Highway 1 towards the coast, Marin County, CA on Labor Day 2014
We tried “Hyperlapse”, which just came out this week, for the first time.
The front brake of my 1978 Honda CB400A (baby cafe racer — AKA “decaf”) went almost dead.
Here, we fix it in about 30 minutes — my first time doing more than just an oil change or electronic reworkings! 😎
We assume somehow my brake fluid has deteriorated/aged from viscous fluid to closer to water (this naturally happens over time) and/or somehow has taken in air (which will sack your brakes entirely).
We open my brake master cylinder, inspect, flush clean brake fluid through (making sure to never get air into the line — AKA “brake bleeding”), and see how the results are.
This extracts the JPEG frames, likely without the huffman compression tables (though chrome dont care 8-), found within the .avi bytestream, and then base64 encodes them so they can be easily inserted into a dynamic <img> tag.
Add in a short display timeout and keep overlaying images, and you have your "video", using <img> tags, like a flip book.
WORKS: [ chrome: yes ][ firefox: was yes but now not 8-( ][ safari/iOS: no ][ IE: i bet not ]
Originally created 2006 by Tracey Jaquith. minor updates to jQuery and simplifying 2013
Source (or "View Source"):
Watch Ron Wyden strongly warn how angry the American People are going to be when they find out how the US Government has been secretly interpreting the PATRIOT act…
Figured this would be fun to mention from last year’s fun event.
New Bay Bridge Span opens — VLOG 1st person motorcycle ride across.
Labor Day 2013, Monday night, ~10pm
The Bay Bridge opens *7 hours before* the widely reported 5am tuesday reopening, after being completely closed for 5 full days.
My twin, Russ AKA “Green Magic Man” (google it 😉 (on green Ninja) and I are the first 30 vehicles on to the 8th street onramp and show you how the new Bay Bridge span looks like from a first person HD camera (courtesy of Hunter, thanks, Baby!)
It is dazzling at night!
Includes 2nd raw 30 minutes of entire trip in a 2nd file.
awesome stuff from
this is my personal favorite!
more lewd texting since after you left politics and “became a changed person”?
OK, after over a year of being “terrorized” by our little 1 of 2 cats, peeing nearly every carpet (in one place or another) she could find, as well as (especially!) bath mats, door mats, etc. here’s the winning steps that seem to have made nearly four months of no pee!
- Removal of the mats and carpets. We found huge amounts of areas on the bottom -side of wall to wall that we had *no idea* were being hit repeatedly! and *man* did they reek once peeled up! (sad/sucks because I love wall to wall). only room left w/ carpet now is “cats only w/ human chaperone” in Hunter’s office
- Kitty prozac (half dose/prescription). Yes, I’m very sorry to say that sometimes psychiatry may be the answer. Of the 2 sister cats, the “little one” was bullied by the “big one”. And little one periodically would rear-leg-scratch her chin (where she has a little mole/bump) and make it bleed. We feed a full dose mixed in to their mixed/shared wet food dinner bowl (mouth injection was just torture for little sensitive one! she also was too clever to notice “chicken wrapped pill pockets”). chinese herbal pulverized powder helped a bit, but not like the prozac. So now they both get ~ 1/2 dose, and the stress/bullying has dropped markedly.
- Nature’s Miracle remover/cleaner. It eats away at the smell/molecules *as well as* making a citrus smell cats dont like. They maybe won’t “run away” from a treated pee carpet spot, per se, but it’s certainly no longer a place they can hardly avoid when nearby.
- More catboxes, each changed 1x/2x day! We’re up to three, none covered, all “in the open” (so no chance for big cat to ambush little cat on coming out of the potty box (yes, that happened!))
- Reward catbox peeing with treats she loves. A coworker who grew up with cats named Sam mentioned how negative feedback (yelling and shoving her face in pee just made her confused and look stupidly “did I do something wrong? why are you mad?”) doesn’t work with cats, but positive does. So if you stop feeding a peeing/misbehaving cat, they get the message “real quick”, goes the theory. That seemed a bit extreme, so went with “follow kitty after getting up in the morning” (when I’m around), gentle verbal coaxing (sometimes pre-catnip) to go to catbox and then *lots* of praise and a treat she *loves* after she’s peed. She’s smart and sometimes doesn’t want to pee (very smell sensitive I think) and pops in/out, hoping for treats on occasion. But now, she gets no treats unless she pees, so she’ll go back in (immediately or in a little bit) and catbox pee and get her treats!
- Years of loving little one to get her 100% trust. This was ongoing. She was always skittish, jumpy, and independent. It took me years to get her to entirely stop hissing at me at times, getting pissy, etc. The key seemed to never lose my patience with her and suffocate her with waves of love, love, love until she knew I was her #1 ally in the house
So thanks internets, Sam, and all the places and things we tried (many many up until now). This is the list that has worked for us, and prior to this “little one” could pee our house up good, sometimes as many as five times a week. It got to the point where I lost my sh*t and started utility-knife cutting up rectangles of the wall to wall and throwing it out — she just would not stop.
My hope is this post may help other owners who adore their cats but are suffering, too!
And as a postscript, “little one” is now The Most affectionate cat ever. She likes to hop under the covers at about 5am for a few hours and spoon with me, purring happily in our mutual love fest. I can hardly convey how happy we are to have her happy and “back”, and have teased out this little lovey wonderful thing that was hidden insider her before.
Using a 24″ x 36″ sheet of (intended for ducting) sheet metal (~$10) and rivet tool + rivets (~$15) I was able to take a 14″ x 8″ opening and create a 4″ deep reducer down to a 14″ x 4″ opening.
This way, this can be an insert into an existing duct and “boot”/box that takes an 8″ pipe of heat into a 4″ deep 14″ x 8″ box. It can then exhale the heat into a 14″ x 4” vent.
Why the insert you ask? Hint: house was built in 1960. Guess what the most common way to insulate ductwork *and* boxes/registers/boots was back then? ASBESTOS, YAY!
So while we don’t know it is for sure, it sure looks like it (inspectors clued us in, t00). So we not gonna mess w/ the box/ductwork that is in relatively good shape and not cut it, etc.
This is all part of a Bigger Project of redecoration we are doing at the bunny fort…